I’VE BEEN MEANING TO ASK A FEW QUESTIONS

This is called Talk Whisky To Me, but I haven’t been doing much talking lately. So in lieu of a conversation, and as an inquisitive science nerd with an interest in the creative bigger picture and the structure of the spirits industry generally, here are some things I have been wondering about.

~ What does innovation actually look like, for whisky? Is it even important, when the most commanding examples of whisky – and other spirits – appear to be produced under kind of basic, everyday conditions? Is it like Italian shoes – just use good materials, your imagination and skills, and build them to last?

type o negative

Type O Negative. Wierd?

~ is wierdness in whisky like wierdness in fashion, or music? That is, that bleeding-edge concepts must exist so that broader tastes and ideas have room to change and grow?

~ Is the industry big enough to accommodate everyone? (It has to be. And there’s this.) The recreational whisky lovers (me I suppose), the sartorially inclined whisky-gentleman, and those who live on some kind of whisky dark-web and communicate only behind locked doors in search of that last independent bottling from closed XYZ distillery that tastes like some combination of spring flowers, religious sacrifice, and dark, beautiful romance? (also what is that whisky, i want to drink it so I can write that exact tasting note)

nbk and opium poppies

~ What if the guy who paid $60,000 for a bottle of scotch whisky that he will never drink, bought 60 x $1,000 whiskies and helped others share the passion and expand their awareness of incredibly gorgeous examples of single malts? (It’s not his job to do that, unless it is. Too bad for us!)
~ What is exclusivity, anyway?
~ What is the role of conspicuous consumption in the whisky industry? Is the existence of the ‘luxury’ concept in fact alienating? Why do women pose in their underwear with whisky? Am I missing a promotional opportunity here (pls comment y/n)? On that note, why do men not do this? Can I even ask this? I mean, it’s all right there in my Instagram feed…
~ Scarcity. Is it all about the limited releases?

benjamin-31

Can you manufacture magic?

~ what actually happens, when you’re re-opening a closed distillery? Do you start from scratch but with a solid grasp of the distillery’s … raison d’être? Strive to re-create a product which was simply the result of a unique constellation of circumstances and people? Consider the relaunch of the (yes, fashion) Elsa Schiaparelli label when the woman herself is long gone. INXS after Michael Hutchence, maybe. Don’t scoff, but I was thinking that Walter Benjamin’s ideas about aura and authenticity might apply.

 

~ Is access to genuinely interesting whisky really only about who you know? (Not really, and being lazy certainly won’t help)
~ Do more bars sell expensive whisky in half pours yet?
~ Do we get to find out for ourselves how micro gravity influences spirit maturation?  Can us mere mortals taste it one day? Or do Ardbeg and the laboratory instruments have all the fun?

gcms at umass

This is Gandalf. No touching. V expensive.

Also I dare someone to send a cask to (1) the moon and (2) mars but also how would an oak barrel cope with the G’s, would you have to test various casks at NASA first? Wait – I know someone who is working on the Mars mission…  #spacecooperage also surely it’s not just microgravity. What about the effects of atmospheric pressure, humidity, temperature, … we’re talking organic substances in a place where such things are unwelcome.  (also, #spacecooper should be a thing)

~ Back on Earth, in the meantime do I simply satisfy myself with learning more about distillery character and the myriad cask options and IBs that are available to me, without going broke? (easy answer: yes.)
~ Who actually invests money in new distilleries? How much money is being made, and lost? How long does it take to make money? is making whisky like being an artist? (no.)  How do you decide on the balance between bottle price, sales and distribution, and getting your whisky into as many hands as possible? Will gin always be the way in?
~ What sort of marketing budget do people have, more importantly if it’s a re-birthed cult distillery do you even need a marketing budget outside of an internet connection and a reasonable imagination? (“Reasonable imaginations cost money these days, Steve,” sighed Mel, as she stood leafing through a magazine in his office.)

cult

Step 1. Create cult.  Step 2. Promote cult.

~ New distillers. Whose advice do you seek? Whose opinions do you court, and why? How do you critique your efforts? Are you forgiving, open, brutal, goal-oriented?
~ Is all this just me? Honestly for TWTM I just want to sit by a river or on a beanbag or a lounge somewhere, with friends, and talk about stuff like this. With a nice whisk(e)y in hand.

The end.

 

Top photo: Educating Rita. Poppy field: Dave Shrubb. Walter Benjamin: these guys

DRINKING POISON FOR FUN AND PROFIT

I’m fairly sure that there’s a word for the moment when you start to evaluate how much you don’t know about something. Specifically, whisky. Was it the US Defense Secretary Colin Powell with his “known unknowns”? Waking up and smelling the espresso martini?

rooney2 wake up and smell the coffee_resize

Nine times.

Earlier in the timeline I didn’t mind how much or how little I knew, because I was having fun and learning as I went. But things change, I’m still having fun ( + learning) but others seem to be having more professional fun and now it seems to matter because life moves pretty fast, as Ferris Bueller – a famous 1980s life coach – once observed.

I got to thinking that maybe I’m going off track. Should my enjoyment of drinks with a very high ABV simply remain a recreational habit? At what point does my liver resign because it knows alcohol can be a poison?

H15113-Ethanol-Transport-Panel-sign

Also, dangerous goods.

Is my aim to earn money in the realm of the (distilled) spirits? With whisky specifically, although I could live with rum, or cognac?

So in the interests of freedom, here is my cut-through no-holds-barred, fearless, based on nothing other than the concept of whisky, career options brainstorm list. It’s a work in progress.

  1. Work in a bar that serves whisky. (I promised myself that my next career move would very specifically not involve me filling in a timesheet, and I last worked in a bar when I was 24.)
  2. Work in a bar that serves only whisky. (but pouring whisky for people who are curious and nice & brainy + cool enough to come to a whisky bar would be so much fun. Plus, all that whisky)
  3. Own a bar that serves whisky (I could really make it my own and I could even open one in Finland or France or northern Italy, and the margins might be OK if it wasn’t in Sydney).

    milan navigli smallest bar inthe world backdoor43-bartender

    The interior of the Smallest Bar in the World, in Milan: unfortunately it was full on the night I wandered past 🙂

  4. Manage a bar that serves whisky. (own and manage?)
  5. Create whisky-related commodities. (could be fun, and does not appear to involve timesheets.)
  6. Make whisky. (may I please borrow $500k and a small team of dedicated individuals, I will have a crack at the planning approval)
  7. Work in a place that makes whisky. (I believe it’s called a distillery.) (timesheets maybe, but there’s chemistry and, well, everything else, so that’s actually fun)
  8. Own a place that makes whisky.  (in art and film, a ‘still’ is a frame capture from a moving image: blade runner 1982 blazepresscom.jpg But in whisky world, a ‘still’ is a mysterious copper orb made of steamy magic). (not sure how this is different from #7, other than the steamy magic bit.)

    Art-Painting-copper still_H_Heijenbrock_1905

    H. Heijenbrock, 1905.

  9. Own a company that owns a place that makes whisky (well it never hurts to have goals. Or …revenue. Hi Diageo, Chivas Bros, Beam Suntory, Remy Cointreau, William Grant, Edrington, et al., like I know all about them)
  10. Work with a company that owns a place that makes whisky (timesheets though) (nice budgets though.)
  11. Be a cask broker. (Like magical networking with whisky as the result.  Talking to winemakers and whisky makers. These would be nice conversations)
  12. Get academic. (research funding y/n)

    Edouard_Manet_the_Absinthe_drinker_1836_realism style

    Edouard Manet, The Absinthe Drinker, 1836. Back then, you could still enjoy your drink outside the bar.

  13. Alcoholic. (It’s a little out of fashion, and not really my style anyway: I’m no good with hangovers. Also a bit tricky to make a living.)
  14. General Hedonist. (I can’t work out if it is the Italian sensualist in me or the Viking genes or just an aussie upbringing. Either way it’s a part-time volunteer gig.)
  15. Talk to people about whisky. (there are some seriously talented people out there who have drinked and talked more whisky than I have drunk water and talked about .. anything, which is hard to imagine as I talk a Lot)
  16. Write about whisky. (writing is fun. I’m not sure if I’m ready for more than a current audience of about 31, but what an audience: you’re here reading my errant take on things, and by the way you look super-hot today. If you’ve read this far, the whisky’s on me)
  17. Just keep drinking whisky.  (“Look at more art.” An artist/lecturer once gave me this advice when I – a grown woman returning to undergrad study – confessed my fear that I had no idea what I was doing. I had thought this was rubbish advice, and later came to understand that I’d wanted her to solve all my problems: the definition of not taking responsibility for myself. Later realising that deep down, I was also facing a lot of self-doubt. You certainly can’t make good art (or music) by ceding to other people’s directions all the time and avoiding your self, and I definitely won’t get any further with whisky by not tasting it.)
  18. Relax. Even if I’m clueless and remain forever so, I still really love talking, writing, and thinking about everything to do with the whisky. Magic is just the things we don’t yet understand.
Mos-Eisley-Cantina-Star-Wars source Coolmaterial_com

The Mos Eisley Cantina

Images:

The Gold Room in The Shining, 1980  –  Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, 1986Dangerous Goods transport placard  – Smallest bar in the worldRachael from Blade Runner, 1982Copper still paintingThe Absinthe Drinker, Edouard Manet  –  Star Wars Episode IV: A New Hope, 1977

WHISKY FOR SUMMER AND MAYBE ALSO APRES-SURF

Hello! Hi! I’m back in whisky land, so pleased to be here! I present to you a very non-technical description of two whiskies that I tried and liked.

My goal, after many months in whisky wilderness, was to reward myself with something tasty after a very intensive year of work and study: glencadam-2i.e. by buying a bottle of whisky. I wandered into The Oak Barrel (central Sydney bottle shop with lots of whisky) with three criteria: under $100, something delicate maybe Highland, and I didn’t want to travel all over Sydney to find it. I was tired and emotional…Long live the impulse buy!

 

Since receiving the incredibly lovely Scotch Malt Whisky Society 4.192 – i.e. Highland Park – among the Society’s gorgeously packaged membership goodies (SMWS, who does your artwork!!), I wanted something similar. The other couple of whiskies at home are kind of powerful with lots of peat and rraarrgh.

aperol-spritz

I made this.

But I mean this is Sydney, and it was 36 degrees C last week, why destroy myself with something made for toasty firesides, mackintoshes, and thawing out fingers numb with cold?  I wanted the single malt equivalent of an Aperol Spritz.

To be fair, the Glencadam I was mulling over kind of made it clear it might be a good choice, “The Rather Delicate” being the 10y.o. whisky’s byline. It was great to taste it first as a bottle had been previously opened. It is a pretty pale straw colour. A lovely slightly boozy beginning and then nectar, early morning summer sunshine, an aromatic hint of lucerne stalks (as a kid I hung around horses and I chewed on the fresh sticky-sweet green hay stalks), and basically rose-tinted sunglasses the whole way down.

 

I was also curious about a Welsh whisky – the Penderyn ‘Myth’.

wetsuit-care-feature-image-mat-arney-992x661

Image: Mat Arney

Happily I could taste this one too – thanks Oak Barrel! The Myth was pleasant. Light bodied, fresh fruit, and a hint of savouryishness. Maybe nice to drink after a surf if the ocean was a bit chilly: without being too massive, it has a rugged alcohol heat all the way through that would help you feel your toes again as you fling your dripping wetsuit over the rail and the wind comes up 🙂

 

Although I really quite liked the Myth and I enjoy the diversity of whisk(e)y in the world today, the Glencadam won my tastebuds this time. The palate is very silky so I think it soothed 2016-frayed nerves better. For a moment I wondered if it needed a bit more ‘something’ until realising that its lingering warmth and subtle nectar-y texture was probably the whole point, and refreshingly so. It definitely has body, and just like the label says it really is ‘rather delicate’! Nothing more to be said. Just summer and whisky and happiness.

opera-house-pink

Take some with you in a flask to enjoy by the Opera House 😉

 

White Rye = Vodka for the cool kids

My Finnish friend is about to spring a white rye from Finland on me, made by the Helsinki Distilling Company. I’m looking forward to trying it.

Belgrove’s white rye … my first… about a year ago at the 2013 Whisky Fair at the Oak Barrel when I became a convert. It’s still my favourite, not least because Belgrove is Australia’s only rye distillery (Tasmania), but I also have a crush on their sexy self-sufficient production.

Koval, the ‘mericans (Chicago), I tried theirs too (and so much more) at the 2014 Whisky Fair which is when I decided I really did definitely want to drink more of this aromatic and rye-ish, clean-finishing, potently boozy liquor.

They both do attractive bottles too, in my somewhat biased opinion. Koval’s generously round cylinders look like they belong on the shelf of a chemistry lab (this is a compliment: I am a science geek). Belgrove’s, tall and square with handwritten details on its linear black and white label, looks almost medicinal – to be seen in an apothecary maybe, or in the surgically steady hands of an excellent bartender.

Basically, it’s moonshine. Just you and the grain, swimming together in a distillery vat.*

Author Max Watman describes it more delicately: “you’ve got nothing but the distiller’s craft and the agriculture behind it.”

MORE pls!

*technical descriptions will improve, in time, if we’re lucky.

February 2014 update – Sydney is about to get its very own! Archie Rose is going to be making and selling this, and more, at their handsome distillery slash bar, opening just as you realise that summer is pretty much over so you may as well drink more whisky.

Wine and whisky, together forever

Whisky Club #2 meetup: short but sweet. Stitch Bar the site, their top shelf lined with single malts. TWTM has a crush on The Islands (the salt! the tang!) so here’s just a few words about my first choice, the Arran Amarone finish.

Amarone is an unusual wine in that it is made from partially dried grapes, which intensifies the sugars in the fruit*. So, with the wine itself having very raisin-y characteristics, it was salt AND these intense honey-dried-raisin notes that I was experiencing.

Other people must like it too, as the bottle was almost empty..

I was happy to notice that it wasn’t at all like a sherry cask finish. I mean, not that it would have been necessarily, but the whole point for me was to taste what influence this wine would have because right now I know a bit more about wine than I do about whisky! I think the wine cask finishes are really interesting because you have two separate booze-making processes (distillation / fermentation) coming together in one barrel with all these new permutations of flavour.

I am starting to also love the textured fire of the non-chill-filtered finish. As a closet fan of high-performance european sports cars, I think it gives me the same sense as the top-notes when one’s foot is very close to the floor and the engine begins to scream/roar 😀 aaahhh yes. Likewise the whisky.

Until the next dram: stay excellent.

* I Made a Terrible Mistake: The original version of this post also mentioned that grapes used to make amarone are also botrytis-affected. Wine Geek Sibling informs me that this is wrong! wrong! So I deleted it, and I can only blame my own poor research, when I really ought to know better.

RESURRECTION: HELLO

It all starts off with a punt, an outside bet, a whim. But it stays with persistence. So much whisky has been drunk! Tasted, experimented with, drooled about! I climb the learning curve with gusto. But do we see words, writing, … ? No.

Thus I cast aside good intentions of publishing carefully wrought prose and witty commentary on whisky tasting experiences, photos of labels, meandering through terminology and just pick up where I am: at the tail end of a mild hangover (Not atttibutable to whisky), soothed with Japanese food, researching a pair of video artists, and realising I really should get some words on this page.

Voila.

in brief: an Introduction to Whisky tasting, where we covered the main whisky producing regions in Scotland, features, pitfalls (additives, cold filtering), and the like. Pretty worthwhile.

An Australian whisky tasting. Super interesting. I realised that I have a secret love of the things that no one quite likes or understands. There was one whisky that I am quite sure would be the Australian equivalent of blue corn whiskey (American).  It was the sort of whisky you drink while sitting on a rock outcrop looking across an expanse of bushland with a hint of bushfire smoke in the air. It tasted like dried twigs – in my uneducated opinion, most Aust whiskies I have tried seem to have that chewing-on-a-dry-eucalyptus-twig sensation at the somewhere just as you swallow the stuff.  Twigs, with maybe some jet fuel, overtones of Sang-Thip whisky, and some other things I can’t remember. anyway I developed a soft spot for it. The kind of whisky that only its mother could love, haha.

After this: a smoky whisky tasting. Managed not to lose my notes for this. I will share more at some stage.  But really right now this is just a device to talk about the Lagavulin I tasted last night, recommended by the exceedingly polite, humble yet friendly and informative bartender at Grain Bar.  I was a little disarmed by his pleasant Germanic (Nordic?) accent and evident appreciation for whisky, so I couldn’t help but say yes when he showed us his personal favourite, the Lagavulin 16, which has spent the last (how long?) part of its sleep in a Pedro Ximenez barrel. “f*ck yeah,” I declared to a new acquaintance upon tasting the stuff. We decided that this was a legitimate tasting description. I didn’t note whether it was the Distiller’s Edition or not. Frankly, I could never afford a bottle of the stuff right now anyway, and I made a deliberate choice to not worry too much about the technicalities and just take it all in, sooner or later it would start to take shape. As most things in life do.

I took this. At the bottom of a glass containing remnants of Lagavulin that had taken a nap in a Pedro Ximenez barrel.

Photo: by me. At the bottom of a glass containing remnants of Lagavulin that had taken a nap in a Pedro Ximenez barrel.

Whisky Fair 2013 at the Oak Barrel, Sydney

So, I went to this. Obviously totally worth it. You may be appalled at the absence of detailed technical information about the whiskies here. That’s because I have misplaced my notes about the thing, and I’ll add updates and links in the fullness of time… Also, I am still learning about the stuff so if you want an authoritative review of The Macallan 18 or something *dreamy smile*… it will be somewhere else (give me time).

1. Just confirming once again that whisky is excellent.

2. Dave – resident whisky genius at the Oak Barrel* – had me try (first-up!) one of their newly bottled cask-strength whiskies, meaning at about 73% alcohol it really kick-started my night. It was like drinking a bunch of carefully chosen spring flowers that suddenly gave way to a very dry, restrained flavour like chewing on a (flavoursome) twig, with a fiery alcoholic finish, partnered with caramel flavours. At least, that’s how I remember it.

2. I tried blue corn whiskey and darn tootin’ it nearly made me vote Republican. There’s definitely something… *frontier* about it. I’ll even give you its name as soon as I can find it.

3. Rye. RYE. I LOVE rye whiskey. I mean, I knew this, but I was excited to have such a range to try so that I could understand it better. It doesn’t punch you in the throat like some whiskies do. It’s earthier and … more round? Make me an old-fashioned with rye, and I’ll be happy. You’d know Rittenhouse but if you want to be cutting-edge local, try Tassie’s Belgrove whiskey.  Belgrove also make a white rye (the spirit is white) which has hints of tequila when you drink it – which makes me want to try it in a margarita-like cocktail. Since summer is coming. You could use finger lime (also a native food) and maybe try making a sugar syrup with rapadura sugar, although that might actually warrant a good tequila given that sugar’s richness… so..well, I might need to consult some chef friends / cocktail maestros about that.

4. Whisky in Australia, it’s a male-dominated sport, but without any wierd boys-club vibe. These are modern men and it feels like a not-so-secret-fraternity that, really, anyone who enjoys the spirit will be a part of. Whisky, as always, remains indifferent to whose pearly whites it passes through on its way to whisky heaven, also known as your stomach.

Lastly, I don’t yet know Nora Maynard, but she has this to say about whisky and whiskey.

* since writing this, Dave has made the move to Archie Rose, Sydney’s very shiny, new distillery in Rosebery, opening in March 2015. Good Luck Dave!